Some birthdays stay with you. My sixty-second in 2022 was celebrated in Beirut, with a quiet dinner alone after a deeply moving afternoon spent with a Syrian refugee family. Exactly one year later, in Damascus, a city I’d longed to visit and still under the control of Assad, my guide Fadi surprised me with a birthday party. It was an unexpected celebration in a city I’d only known through headlines, and not good ones. The past two Aprils have been […]
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